Aquazzura, spring 2020, platform sandals, pink

Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi’s aim for spring ’20 was to dream up styles that were “anything but plain.” The collection focuses on animal print, part of the label’s DNA, but in an unexpected way. “I wanted to push it into new arenas to make it feel fresh and modern,” Choi said. For instance, on a pump, she combined leopard and zebra — and added a pop of neon orange on the heel. Other animal looks are adorned with oversized crystal embellishments, and snake patterns make a statement on bold platform sandals. Flat lattice sandals are also a highlight. Accessories are in step with the animal theme, and key styles are reworked with big spots or stripes.

Jimmy Choo, Spring, Summer, 2020

Jimmy Choo spring ’20 platform sandal.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF JIMMY CHOO

Giuseppe Zanotti is all about flower power for spring. The decorative embellishment — lilies to roses, maxi to mini — is a central theme in the collection, which highlights the designer’s affinity for elegance and femininity. “I don’t want to forgot my past. I am a sneaker designer, but I’m also about elegance,” he said. “I love the flower for daytime and evening.” Another standout piece is a mule crafted from transparent vinyl finished in a heel with translucent crystals.

Giuseppe Zanotti , spring 2020, Milan fashion week, sandals, flowers
Floral sandals from Giuseppe Zanotti spring ’20.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

Gianvito Rossi got into the groove with a music-inspired collection and presentation that was captured the spirit of the ’70s. He paired a classic red and white guitar with red and white patent pumps. Party-ready platforms in bright hues and look-at-me leopard spun around on vinyls and decked out drum sets. Rossi also took an artsy turn, revealing a Jeff Koons-inspired heel on a sandal.

The rainbow platform roller skates stole the show at Aquazzura, where creative director Edgardo Osorio rolled out a fun collection that mirrored his hits through the years. Other whimsical styles include sandals adorned with butterflies and strawberries. “I’ve been going through my archives, and it gave me a chance to see everything we’ve been doing, look at the things I love and go back to our roots,” the designer said. “It’s sexy, it’s fun, there are shoes you can go dancing in and shoes for every day that have a little touch of [glamour].”

Aquazzura, roller skates, rainbow sandals, spring 2020, mfw
Rainbow-striped roller skates at Aquazzura.
CREDIT: SHANNON ADDUCCI

Sergio Rossi always has a big story of the season. For spring, it hopes to tap into logo mania with a 3-D “super heel,” crafted from its graphic statement logo using S and R initials. The heel is used on a range of the brand’s Sergio styles — from a pointed-toe pump to square-toe sandals and mules. Velcro-strapped sneakers are updated with it as well.

Sergio Rossi, super heel, spring 2020, sandals
Sergio Rossi’s “super heel.”
CREDIT: COURTESY OF SERGIO ROSSI

After kicking off its fall boot campaign with Kendall Jenner last week, Stuart Weitzman is going tropical with a colorful Caribbean-inspired collection that was presented against a backdrop of palm trees. Edmundo Castillo, the brand’s head of product design, offers up classic thong sandals with macramé and wooden beading plus espadrilles with the label’s new star embellishment and a Mary Jane adorned with crystals.

espadrilles, Stuart Weitzman, spring 2020,
Star-adorned espadrilles from Stuart Weitzman.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF STUART WEITZMAN

Geox is making a bigger play for the hot sneaker market with a new women’s version of its best-selling Aerantis sneaker. The refined style plays up the brand’s extensive technology and features a breathing system on the upper and outsole. The color combinations, which mix white and bright hues, also is incorporated on knitwear-and-leather sneakers throughout the collection. Among Geox’s more dressed-up looks are espadrilles with suede leather detailing and slingback sandals on low heels. Animal and ethnic prints also appear on a number of silhouettes. Meanwhile, in stores now is Geox’s new WWF collaboration capsule, which supports one of the largest conservation organizations.

Geox Aerantis, spring 2020, women's sneakers, Milan fashion week
The new women’s Aerantis sneaker from Geox.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF GEOX

Hogan was among the first brands to launch a luxury sneaker in the ’80s, long before high-end kicks were ubiquitous. As it continues to evolve the category, the Tod’s-owned label took cues from the great outdoors for spring. “Renewed interest around nature is a recurring theme in luxury,” said Sergio Azzolari, Hogan’s general manager. “So it’s natural that outdoor references are becoming more present. That is what we embrace in this collection.”

Hogan, sneakers, spring 2020, fashion trainers, mfw
Hogan spring ’20 trainers.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF HOGAN

Casadei made a strong statement about ethical fashion with its nine-style capsule collection that uses fabrics woven by women in Burkina Faso, Africa, an area known for its artisanal weaving and one of the biggest producers of African cotton.  The line is a collaboration with Ethical Fashion Initiative, which promotes the work  of communities from developing countries.

Casadei, spring 2020, Milan fashion week
A sandal from Casadei’s spring ’20 capsule collection, made in partnership with Ethical Fashion Initiative.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF CASADEI

At Rene Caovilla, spring ‘20’s floral motif is anything but ordinary. The brand combines floral embroideries with its signature crystals on spring designs, including an all-over crystal boot. Bejeweled PVC sandals are another highlight — and Caovilla also introduced kitten-heel thong sandals to take things down just a notch.

Rene Caovilla, thong sandals, spring 2020, Milan fashion week
Rene Caovilla thong sandals for spring ’20.
CREDIT: RENE CAOVILLA

The Giusti Sisters behind AGL delivered a geometric collection for spring, focusing on sharp lines as seen in their pointed mules with ankle straps and mini stiletto heels. Two-tone cut-out booties and a new block heel shaped like a quarter moon also fit with the graphic theme.

AGL, booties, Milan fashion week, spring 2020
Two-tone cut-out booties from AGL.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF AGL

Furla revealed a fresh arch-inspired logo to emphasize its 90-plus year heritage. The brand’s ‘Furla 1927’ bags, presented in a rainbow of colors, were the focus. Shoes are also a priority, and Furla is focusing on quality and working with new factories.

Furla 1927, handbag, mfw, spring 2020
The Furla 1927 bag.
CREDIT: FURLA

Bally has a new kitten heel that pays homage to mid-century modern design — as seen on the graphic Callie shoe, which has asymmetrical lines and a chiseled toe. The Alexa boot gets an update in suede on contrast leather. An archive B-chain pattern adorns Bally classics, including the Janelle and Heimberg sneaker.

Bally, spring 2020, Milan fashion week
Kitten heeled sandals from Bally.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF BALLY

Rodo has a new graphic “Paris bag” lock accessory that decorates its bags and shoes. Footwear styles range from flat to chunky heels, and are fashioned in colors such as salmon, tan and mid blue. The bags take on more contemporary shapes this season, and take cues from the rich archive.

Rodo, flats, salmon, milan fashion week, spring 2020
Salmon-colored flats from Rodo.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF RODO

Santoni’s women’s collection took cues from its best men’s styles, including loafers and lace-ups. The three-buckle embellishment is key on both ankle boots and slippers, which come in five colors.  Santoni also got in on the see-now, buy-now action, offering two fall styles in orange and light blue at its stores and online during Milan Fashion Week.

Fratelli Rossetti is touting dual-gender styles at a time when crossover looks are more dominate than ever. The “Brera bow” loafer, inspired by the style’s signature tassels, makes its debut this season. The bow element is featured on sandals, pumps and ballet flats.

Fratelli Rossetti
Rainbow-striped Fratelli Rossetti loafers.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF FRATELLI ROSSETTI

British heritage brand Church’s takes inspiration from summer hues and the landscapes of Cornwall, England for spring. Sea pink flowers and soft sand tones are paired with suede sandals and loafers. Python prints dress up new lace-ups.

Pollini took a walk down memory lane by revisiting some of its classics. In addition to its archive-inspired collection of shoes and bags, it updated equestrian boots, unveiled monk-strap loafers and emphasized the signature “cremino” sole. The brand’s horsebit is used across a range of shoes and bags.

Pollini, equestrian boots, spring 2020, mfw
Pollini boots for spring ’20.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF POLLINI

Nicolò Beretta has had quite the week. The designer announced that his Giannico label was acquired by L’Autre Chose, and officially opened the latter’s store on Saturday evening. For his Giannico collection, he took over historic Milanese jewelry store Pennisi’s to introduce his spring collection.

giannico, heels, silver, spring 2020, mfw
Silver heels from Giannico’s spring ’20 collection.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF GIANNICO

Collaboration Alert: 

Some major U.S. brands made a big splash during the week with attention-grabbing collaborations. Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton with their third collaboration collection, which was presented at a packed night-time event on Monday…

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 16: A model poses during the Fall 2019 Tommy x Lewis Milan presentation during the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 16, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images for Tommy Hilfiger)
Lewis Hamilton (L) and Tommy Hilfiger.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF TOMMY HILFIGER

Sustainable leader Rothy’s made a notable move outside the U.S. through its wool collab with rising Italian designer Marta FerriSkechers teamed up with Chinese fashion label Ricostru on an apparel collection inspired by both the retro style of 1992 — when Skechers was born — and the futuristic design of 2049 that defines Ricostru minimalist aesthetic…Alexa Chung and Superga toasted their latest collaboration line.

Marta Ferri Rothy's Loafer
A Marta Ferri x Rothy’s checked loafer.
CREDIT: COURTESY IMAGE

Launch Party:

Perhaps the most notable spring ’20 debut in Milan? Sara Battaglia’swhimsical new collection, unveiled at her presentation today. The designer — who first made a name for herself with bags and later launched ready-to-wear — debuted 13 shoe styles. Average price points are around 500 euros, or $550 at current exchange.

Sara Battaglia, Spring, Summer, 2020, collection
Sara Battaglia spring ’20 collection.
CREDIT: COURTESY

Mia Becar made a grand debut in a space overlooking Milan’s famed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. The Los-Angeles based direct-to-consumer brand, which launched this summer. Creative director Betsy Gonzalez was inspired by Hollywood’s Golden Age and her Mexican heritage. The collection features d’orsay pumps, mules, stiletto booties and more.

Mia Becar
Pumps from Mia Becar, inspired by creative director Betsy Gonzalez’s Mexican heritage.
CREDIT: COURTESY OF MIA BECAR
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